Friday, January 8, 2010
How much (ballpark $) does it cost to get an oil pan gasket replaced on a 90's ford escort?
should not be over $150. It's approx. 2 hrs labor plus the gasket.
Where can i get an oil pan for my 99 honda prelude sh?
my drain plug warped the threads on the oil pan and ive been told the best thing to do is get a new oil pan...the engine is losing about 1 quart of oil every two weeks...is there any other way of fixing this problem?Where can i get an oil pan for my 99 honda prelude sh?
try JEGSWhere can i get an oil pan for my 99 honda prelude sh?
retap the hole for the drainplug and get a new plug, or buy new from the dealership...
try JEGSWhere can i get an oil pan for my 99 honda prelude sh?
retap the hole for the drainplug and get a new plug, or buy new from the dealership...
My oil plug is stripped and just keeps spinning in the oil pan. I cant get it out. Any Tips?
I tried pulling it out with vice grips but the dam thing just keeps spinning in the socket. Money is very tight and Im lacking mechanical brains. I just need to get the plug out and put in a self tapping 1. My oil plug is stripped and just keeps spinning in the oil pan. I cant get it out. Any Tips?
that sounds like a bad situation as it sounds like the nut welded inside the pan has come un-welded and won't let the oil plug come out, you are going to have to take the oil pan off and either get a new one or have that one fixed, sorry.My oil plug is stripped and just keeps spinning in the oil pan. I cant get it out. Any Tips?
Since it's already stripped try driving a screwdriver blade between the pan and the shoulders on the plug then try to loosen it.Do it on the side so the blade doesn't hit the body of the drain plug.You might have to try a few times.If the screwdriver doesn't work try a thin chisel.Sometimes you have to put one on each side of the plug.
If this is a steel oil pan, then the welded nut on the inside of the pan has broken loose. Your cheapest bet would be to remove the pan and replace it with one from a wrecking yard in good shape or weld a new nut inside the pan, and replace the plug. Do not tighten the new plug to more than 25-30 ft.lbs. That's what killed it to begin with.
you are going to end up replacing the pan. even if you are able to get the old plug out the pan will be damaged and leak. even a self tapping bolt is only short term fix for a long term problem. i feel for you, look into the price of a pan and save the money up.
Time to get out the drill!
Hold it steady with vice grips and use the biggest drill bit you can because you're going to have to wrestle whatever remains out of the pan.
I'm glad you're doing that job and not me.
daymn your in a tight one aint cha well do what the guy sayd with the screwdriver, if that dont works then you need a new pan cause you need to take it off and you might as well replace it since its off.
I would remove the oil pan, and either drill or cut the plug out. The retap the pan and install a larger plug. You'll need to replace the oil pan gasket before reinstalling the oil pan.
um don't know
that sounds like a bad situation as it sounds like the nut welded inside the pan has come un-welded and won't let the oil plug come out, you are going to have to take the oil pan off and either get a new one or have that one fixed, sorry.My oil plug is stripped and just keeps spinning in the oil pan. I cant get it out. Any Tips?
Since it's already stripped try driving a screwdriver blade between the pan and the shoulders on the plug then try to loosen it.Do it on the side so the blade doesn't hit the body of the drain plug.You might have to try a few times.If the screwdriver doesn't work try a thin chisel.Sometimes you have to put one on each side of the plug.
If this is a steel oil pan, then the welded nut on the inside of the pan has broken loose. Your cheapest bet would be to remove the pan and replace it with one from a wrecking yard in good shape or weld a new nut inside the pan, and replace the plug. Do not tighten the new plug to more than 25-30 ft.lbs. That's what killed it to begin with.
you are going to end up replacing the pan. even if you are able to get the old plug out the pan will be damaged and leak. even a self tapping bolt is only short term fix for a long term problem. i feel for you, look into the price of a pan and save the money up.
Time to get out the drill!
Hold it steady with vice grips and use the biggest drill bit you can because you're going to have to wrestle whatever remains out of the pan.
I'm glad you're doing that job and not me.
daymn your in a tight one aint cha well do what the guy sayd with the screwdriver, if that dont works then you need a new pan cause you need to take it off and you might as well replace it since its off.
I would remove the oil pan, and either drill or cut the plug out. The retap the pan and install a larger plug. You'll need to replace the oil pan gasket before reinstalling the oil pan.
um don't know
How can I stop my oil pan plug from leaking by. I have tried different plugs,sealers, and gaskets.?
First time I had trouble was after serviced at Walmart a few years back. It started as a slow drip. Now no matter what I try drips even more.How can I stop my oil pan plug from leaking by. I have tried different plugs,sealers, and gaskets.?
maybe try putting 2 passes of teflon tape over the threads. don't put the tape on backwards. you'll know if you put it on backwards when you screw it in.How can I stop my oil pan plug from leaking by. I have tried different plugs,sealers, and gaskets.?
you need a new oil pan
they probably damaged the thread when screwing it back in by cross threading it, get it checked out, if they have and tape does not work then you could re-thread it and try a larger plug or buy a new pan.
replace the oil pan
maybe try putting 2 passes of teflon tape over the threads. don't put the tape on backwards. you'll know if you put it on backwards when you screw it in.How can I stop my oil pan plug from leaking by. I have tried different plugs,sealers, and gaskets.?
you need a new oil pan
they probably damaged the thread when screwing it back in by cross threading it, get it checked out, if they have and tape does not work then you could re-thread it and try a larger plug or buy a new pan.
replace the oil pan
How much, on average, would a garage charge to replace the oil pan of a 1991 Ford F250, 4.9L, automatic, 2WD?
I priced an oil pan and gasket at a couple of my local auto parts stores at a range of anywhere from $125 to $150. A local garage owner tried to say the job would cost me $475.00 with parts and labour. I know labour costs run high in some places in the USA, but not in this area I'm talking about. I also realise this is a messy job most mechanics really wouldn't want to get into if they had the choice, but his quote and the price I found for the parts alone make up a big difference. We're talking almost $350 in labour the way I figure it, unless of course there are more parts needed that I didn't count. Then again, could this guy be trying to hose me? Thanks!How much, on average, would a garage charge to replace the oil pan of a 1991 Ford F250, 4.9L, automatic, 2WD?
I don't know the configuration of the engine in the F250, but it COULD be easy if the pan is accessible: disconnect any possible oil sensors, drain the oil, undo the bolts, clean everything up, install the new pan with the new gasket and appropriate sealant, an hour tops.
On the other hand, if there are chassis members or exhaust pipes running under the engine and bad access to the pan, it could mean undoing a lot of stuff before you even get to the pan.
I'd suggest crawling under and taking a look, and try to guess how much junk needs to be moved to get the pan off. If there's nothing there, he's trying to hose you.
Then call three other mechanics and ask them; or call the Ford dealer and ask for the ';book rate'; for the job. If they all say the same thing it's probably not BS.How much, on average, would a garage charge to replace the oil pan of a 1991 Ford F250, 4.9L, automatic, 2WD?
not enough clearance even with motor jacked up. have to unbolt from trans and lift it a bit.
You'll need the pan, a gasket, an oil filter, and oil. If the engine is fuel injected, the labor time is 4.5 hours. Carbed is 3.3 hours, according to Alldata. Its tight, but this is how you get it out. Unbolt the engine mounts from the frame, jack the engine up, and place 2x4 pieces between the mounts and frame. Let the engine down. Now unbolt the trans mount from the crossmember and jack the trans all the way up to the floor. You should be able to slip the pan out the back. You may have to turn the crank to clear the front throws with the front of the pan. Get a FelPro gasket with what they call Pro Studs. They are barbed plastic guide pins that you thread in to the pan bolt holes, and then will hold up the gasket, pan , and reenforcement bars all at once so you can get the bolts started. Nothing to it.
Not sure what shop rates are in USA but price sounds close to me, if that's including pan %26amp; gasket, oil and oil-filter I say ''throw in a lube job with that price'' and leave it there.
took me 6 hours to do one in my driveway with my friend's 92 Ford F250 without air tools and a hoist.
What was needed was:
(1) up to 6 litres / quarts motor oil
(2) oil filter
(3) cat litter (to soak up spilled oil)
(4) gaskets
(5) gasket sealant
(6) oil pan (we got a used one from wrecking yard)
(7) new drain plug w/O-ring
It just the oil pan dude! Just drain it, drop it, put a gasket on it then replace the pain. Simple enough as long as you have a garage. Just buy a Chiltons and see how easy it is, plus they are always good to have.
I don't know the configuration of the engine in the F250, but it COULD be easy if the pan is accessible: disconnect any possible oil sensors, drain the oil, undo the bolts, clean everything up, install the new pan with the new gasket and appropriate sealant, an hour tops.
On the other hand, if there are chassis members or exhaust pipes running under the engine and bad access to the pan, it could mean undoing a lot of stuff before you even get to the pan.
I'd suggest crawling under and taking a look, and try to guess how much junk needs to be moved to get the pan off. If there's nothing there, he's trying to hose you.
Then call three other mechanics and ask them; or call the Ford dealer and ask for the ';book rate'; for the job. If they all say the same thing it's probably not BS.How much, on average, would a garage charge to replace the oil pan of a 1991 Ford F250, 4.9L, automatic, 2WD?
not enough clearance even with motor jacked up. have to unbolt from trans and lift it a bit.
You'll need the pan, a gasket, an oil filter, and oil. If the engine is fuel injected, the labor time is 4.5 hours. Carbed is 3.3 hours, according to Alldata. Its tight, but this is how you get it out. Unbolt the engine mounts from the frame, jack the engine up, and place 2x4 pieces between the mounts and frame. Let the engine down. Now unbolt the trans mount from the crossmember and jack the trans all the way up to the floor. You should be able to slip the pan out the back. You may have to turn the crank to clear the front throws with the front of the pan. Get a FelPro gasket with what they call Pro Studs. They are barbed plastic guide pins that you thread in to the pan bolt holes, and then will hold up the gasket, pan , and reenforcement bars all at once so you can get the bolts started. Nothing to it.
Not sure what shop rates are in USA but price sounds close to me, if that's including pan %26amp; gasket, oil and oil-filter I say ''throw in a lube job with that price'' and leave it there.
took me 6 hours to do one in my driveway with my friend's 92 Ford F250 without air tools and a hoist.
What was needed was:
(1) up to 6 litres / quarts motor oil
(2) oil filter
(3) cat litter (to soak up spilled oil)
(4) gaskets
(5) gasket sealant
(6) oil pan (we got a used one from wrecking yard)
(7) new drain plug w/O-ring
It just the oil pan dude! Just drain it, drop it, put a gasket on it then replace the pain. Simple enough as long as you have a garage. Just buy a Chiltons and see how easy it is, plus they are always good to have.
Wednesday, December 30, 2009
I stripped the nut to drain my oil pan. how to get it off?
im trying to do an oil change on my old school benz and, i stripped the nut that drains the oil. i tried those wrenches that they have at sears to remove stripped nuts, but they only stripped it more. any suggestions? please help, time is of the essence!I stripped the nut to drain my oil pan. how to get it off?
you can get a kit called a bolt extracter kit ive got a set never had any probsI stripped the nut to drain my oil pan. how to get it off?
vicegrips and a screwdriver prying out as you turn with the vicegrips and after you get it out go to the parts store and get a self tapping drain plug.
slap a set of vice grips on it dude. that should work
Best solution, buy new oil pan and oil pan gasket or try this:
get a dremmel or such and use the metel cutting wheel.
Carefully cut a slot across the nut, then use a flat head screw driver to take out he nut.
Vicegrips. But if the bolt is stripped so badly that those damaged-bolt-removers can't get it off, I wouldn't put a lot of faith in vicegrips either. I think you're going to be looking at replacing the entire oil pan. You'll need to undo all the bolts that hold it to the engine and pull it off. With it being full of oil still, the job will be messy as hell. You'll need a new oil pan gasket as well when you put the new pan on.
visegrips
try vice grips like everyone else has said.If that doesn't work try using drilling a little hole in it a ways and then use an easy out. And of course then you will have to get a new drain plug, but you will get it out.
If there's anything left to grip get your hands on a small 8'; Ridgid Brand pipe wrench or large Vice Grip pliers. If your lucky any auto parts store will have a replacement oil pan drain plug. A plug from your Benz dealer would be better. When you install the new plug bare in mind that the hex nowadays is always a metric size.
If all else fails center punch the pan bolt and drill a large hole in it and get your hands on the largest screw extractor you can and reverse it out. Thank the last SOB that over tightened your oil pan drain bolt.
Vise grips are a life saver. Just be sure to lock them down as tight as you can possibly get them. Then I try to pull down on them as I twist the bolt. Hopefully it will catch and you can get it out. Now the problem will be getting it back in. With the threads stripped, you will have damage on the oil pan too.
Do you get another oil pan, or try drilling it out and using a tap and increasing the bolt to a larger size? I don't think that a heli-coil will work in this case. good luck.
get a pair of vise grip locking pliers and lock them on the bolt as tight as you can and then smack the bottom of them with a hammer just make sure you are loosing and not tighteningmake up
you can get a kit called a bolt extracter kit ive got a set never had any probsI stripped the nut to drain my oil pan. how to get it off?
vicegrips and a screwdriver prying out as you turn with the vicegrips and after you get it out go to the parts store and get a self tapping drain plug.
slap a set of vice grips on it dude. that should work
Best solution, buy new oil pan and oil pan gasket or try this:
get a dremmel or such and use the metel cutting wheel.
Carefully cut a slot across the nut, then use a flat head screw driver to take out he nut.
Vicegrips. But if the bolt is stripped so badly that those damaged-bolt-removers can't get it off, I wouldn't put a lot of faith in vicegrips either. I think you're going to be looking at replacing the entire oil pan. You'll need to undo all the bolts that hold it to the engine and pull it off. With it being full of oil still, the job will be messy as hell. You'll need a new oil pan gasket as well when you put the new pan on.
visegrips
try vice grips like everyone else has said.If that doesn't work try using drilling a little hole in it a ways and then use an easy out. And of course then you will have to get a new drain plug, but you will get it out.
If there's anything left to grip get your hands on a small 8'; Ridgid Brand pipe wrench or large Vice Grip pliers. If your lucky any auto parts store will have a replacement oil pan drain plug. A plug from your Benz dealer would be better. When you install the new plug bare in mind that the hex nowadays is always a metric size.
If all else fails center punch the pan bolt and drill a large hole in it and get your hands on the largest screw extractor you can and reverse it out. Thank the last SOB that over tightened your oil pan drain bolt.
Vise grips are a life saver. Just be sure to lock them down as tight as you can possibly get them. Then I try to pull down on them as I twist the bolt. Hopefully it will catch and you can get it out. Now the problem will be getting it back in. With the threads stripped, you will have damage on the oil pan too.
Do you get another oil pan, or try drilling it out and using a tap and increasing the bolt to a larger size? I don't think that a heli-coil will work in this case. good luck.
get a pair of vise grip locking pliers and lock them on the bolt as tight as you can and then smack the bottom of them with a hammer just make sure you are loosing and not tightening
Where is the oil pan on a Chrysler LHS?
I have a Chrysler LHS, and it has been under warranty since it was bought, so we were always able to get the oil changed for free. Now, the warranty is over, and we have to change the oil ourselves. I bough the oil and filter, and put it up on our ramps, and I could not find the oil pan or filter anywhere under the car. Anybody have any ideas?Where is the oil pan on a Chrysler LHS?
It's bolted to the bottom of the engine block. If you know that little about cars, I would suggest have an oil change shop or repair shop do the work.Where is the oil pan on a Chrysler LHS?
Visit you local auto parts store and purchase Haynes manual #25025 for your LHS, about $20.00, full of good info, photos and diagrams. Most auto parts stores and Walmarts will recycle your used oil for free, call or ask around.
Econo lube and tune, thursday morning special before 11:00 am
$19.95 oil, filter,lube and labor, tax and disposal extra. Better than doing it your self and getting dirty.
And I worked for chrysler for 25 yrs.
It's bolted to the bottom of the engine block. If you know that little about cars, I would suggest have an oil change shop or repair shop do the work.Where is the oil pan on a Chrysler LHS?
Visit you local auto parts store and purchase Haynes manual #25025 for your LHS, about $20.00, full of good info, photos and diagrams. Most auto parts stores and Walmarts will recycle your used oil for free, call or ask around.
Econo lube and tune, thursday morning special before 11:00 am
$19.95 oil, filter,lube and labor, tax and disposal extra. Better than doing it your self and getting dirty.
And I worked for chrysler for 25 yrs.
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